5354 TROUSERS WITH CURVED SEAMS
YOU WILL NEED: denim, iron-on interfacing; 3 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 2 cm for hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric pieces).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE MATCHING!
1. Side front – 2 pieces
2. Centre front – 2 pieces
3. Patch pocket – 2 pieces
4. Flap – 4 pieces
5. Centre back – 2 pieces
6. Side back – 2 pieces
7. Carrier – 1 piece
8. Waistband – 1 piece
9. Zip guard – 1 piece
Interfacing: waistband, flaps.
1. Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband and the flaps.
2. Stitch and neaten the front curved seams; press them towards the centre front. Topstitch with decorative stitches 0.5 cm away from the seams.
3. Stitch and neaten the back curved seams; press them backwards. Topstitch with decorative stitches 0.5 cm away from the seams.
4. Pin the flap pieces right sides together and stitch leaving the top open. Turn the flap right side out through the open edge. Make decorative stitch 0.5 cm in from the edging. Neaten the flap top edges.
5. Stitch and neaten the side seams. Press them backwards.
6. Neaten the centre/inside leg edges and the hems. Stitch the inside leg seams twice; neaten them. Press these seams backwards. Stitch the crotch seam up to the zipper notch twice as well.
7. Press and fix with stitch inverted pleat at the patch pocket. Neaten the patch pocket edges; press the seam allowances according to the pattern. Topstitch the pocket entrance. Mark the pocket position on front/back piece and topstitch the pocket 0.2 cm in around the couture, topstitch the flaps according to the marking. Unfold the flaps downwards and topstitch them 0.5 cm below the seams.
8. Press the closure fly extensions to the wrong side. Stitch zip tape edges to the slit left edge and to the right fly extension. Fold the zip guard pieces right sides together and overstitch along two sides. Turn it inside out. Neaten the long edge. Topstitch the left fly extension to the guard. Topstitch the right edge of the slit close to the foldline catching the extension.
9. Fold the carrier in half lengthways with wrong side out and stitch the long edges. Turn the carrier right side out and press it.
10. Press the waistband along the center right side out and neaten one long edge. Cut the carriers; topstitch them to the waistband matching the marks.
11. Stitch the waistband to the garment top edge. Overstitch the waistband ends, trim the allowances on the corner and turn the waistband right side out. Topstitch the neatened edge on the joining seam and press the waistband.
12. Press the hem allowances to the wrong side and stitch them in place.
13. Make a buttonhole in the waistband right edge. Sew the button on the left edge. Make buttonholes in the flaps; sew buttons on the patch pocket according to the flap buttonholes.