YOU NEED: denim; fusing; 1 long zipper; 3 short zippers; 1 stud; 1 clasp; 5 eyelets.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams. 3 cm for hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Collar – 2 pieces
2. Center front leg – 2 pieces
3. Side front leg – 2 pieces
4. Center back leg – 2 pieces
5. Side back leg – 2 pieces
6. Center back part – 2 pieces
7. Side back part – 2 pieces
8. Side front part – 2 pieces
9. Center front part – 2 pieces
10. Bust pocket – 2 pieces
11. Patch pocket – 1 piece
12. Decorative leg half-belt – 1 piece
13. Decorative pocket – 1 piece
14. Front band – 2 pieces
15. Belt loop – 1 piece
16. Belt – 1 piece
17. Decorative pocket facing – 1 piece
Fusing: belt, outer collar, front band, pocket entrance stripe.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of belt, outer collar, front band, pocket entrance stripe.
2. Sew back middle edge. Neaten back middle seam and press it towards right front part.
3. Sew front/back relieve seams. Neaten relieve seams and press them towards the center. Male decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from relieve seams.
4. Sew side/shoulder seams. Neaten side/shoulder seams. Press side/shoulder seams backwards.
5. Neaten decorative leg half-belt along contour and press allowances at 1 cm leaving on of edges unpressed. Neaten decorative pocket along contour leaving upper rounded edge unpressed. Neaten decorative pocket facing lower edge, press at 1 cm and topstitch. Lay decorative pocket facing on pocket right sides together and overstitch. Cut extra allowances at pocket rounded corners and turn the pocket right side out. Press decorative pocket allowances according to patter and make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from edge along upper rounded edge. Topstitch decorative pocket on leg half-belt leaving pocket entrance unstitched. Make the stud. Mark leg half-belt on the garment and topstitch along contour.
6. Sew relieve seams into back leg. Neaten seams and press towards side back leg. Make decorative stitch along relieve seam at 0.5 cm. Stitch relieve seams into front leg. Neaten seams and press them towards side front leg. Make decorative stitch along relive seam at 0.5 cm.
7. Sew inside leg seams. Neaten inside leg seams and press the backwards.
8. Sew side edges of garment lower part. Neaten side seams and press them backwards.
9. Neaten edges: crotch edge and front middle edge. Stitch crotch edge and front edge to closure notch. Make another stitch along crotch seam, close to stitch joining front and middle seam.
10. Neaten bust pocket along contour. Mark zipper place on the pocket. Cut fabric facings. Apply pocket entrance stripe to wrong side on pocket entrance and adjust zipper place. Stitch facings along marking. Adjust facings on wrong side (stitches must be parallel). Cut pocket entrance and make diagonal notches at 1-1.5 cm from pocket ends. Turn allowance wrong side out through this slit. Neaten facings. Sew the zipper under facing with its teeth visible. Topstitch pocket entrance along edge at 0.2 cm distance. Press bust pocket allowance at 1 cm.
11. Neaten patch pocket along contour. Press patch pocket allowance at 1 cm. Mark zipper place and process in the same way as bust pocket. Mark [lace on patch pocket and topstitch it on 0.2 cm from edge.
12. Overstitch inner collar with outer one; turn the collar right side out and topstitch.
13. Sew garment lower part to upper one. Neaten joining seam and press it downwards. Sew the zipper to notch.
14. Neaten inner edge of front bands. Overstitch garment front middle edges with front bands.
15. Sew the collar into neckline inserting it between front bands. Neaten seam joining the collar and topstitch allowance on back neckline. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from zipper.
16. Neaten armhole edge, press it and topstitch upwards.
17. Fold belt loop along the center right side in, adjust edges and overstitch at 0.5-0.7 cm from edges. Then turn it right side out; pace the seam at bending or make edging of 0.1-0.2 cm to inner side; press.
18. Cut belt loops according to size and topstitch on garment side/middle seams at belt.
19. Fold the belt along the center right side in. Overstitch it along three edges leaving a slit. Turn the belt right side out and press when ready. Make decorative stitch along belt contour at 0.5 cm from edge. Put the clasp, turn waistband end to wrong side and topstitch making a loop. Make eyelets into belt. Pull the belt in.
20. Neaten garment hem. Fold it under and press, then topstitch on the garment.