5469 ¾ TROUSERS WITH GATHERING

 

YOU NEED: natural fabric, fusing, 1 zipper, 1 button, cotton lining, decorative cord.

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hems.

 

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Front part 2 pieces

2. Side part 2 pieces

3. Side pocket 1 piece

4. Side flap 2 pieces

5. Back part 2 pieces

6. Button catch 1 piece

7. Waistband 2 pieces

8. Belt loop 1 piece

Lining:

1. Pocket 2 pieces

 

Fusing: flap, waistband, button catch.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of flap, waistband, button catch.

 

2. Stitch back darts.

 

3. Lay pocket lining on front part right sides together and overstitch pocket entrance. Neaten joining seam and slash corner allowance. Make decorative stitch along pocket entrance at 0.5 cm from pocket edge and press it. Remove tacking. Lay front part to marks on side front part marking pocket entrance. Sew side front part to front part along upper/side edges with 1 cm stitch. Stitch pocket lining and neaten it.

 

4. Neaten side edges, leg inside edges, middle front ends and flying front edge, crotch edge and garment hems.

 

5. Press hem allowances into wrong side and topstitch them on the garment.

 

6. Stitch side seams and press them apart. Topstitch side seam allowances down to the notch at equal distance from seam.

 

7. Lay flap details right side together and overstitch them. Cut allowances in flap corners and turn the detail right side out. Make decorative stitch along flap outer contour at 0.5 cm from edge. Neaten flap outer edge.

 

8. Neaten pocket outer contour and press it according to pattern. Topstitch upper edge on the pocket, mark pocket place on front/back parts and topstitch the pocket according to contour at 0.2 cm from pocket edge. Topstitch the flap according to marks. Fold the flap into right side and topstitch it at 0.5 cm from the seam.

 

9. Fold the loop belt along the center and overstitch at 0.5-0.7 cm from edges. Turn the detail right side out, placing seam at fold or make edging of 0.1-0.2 cm width into wrong side, and press.

 

10. Stitch leg inside seams and press them apart. Topstitch inside seams allowances down to notches at equal distance from the seam.

 

11. Sew front edge and middle edge to closure notch. Make another stitch along crotch seam neat stitch joining front and middle seams.

 

12. Press one-piece closure facings to wrong side. Sew the zipper under closure allowance (left edge) along edge. Sew zipper free braid to right one-piece facing. Fold button catch along the center and overstitch lower short edge. Topstitch one-piece closure facing on button catch on garment left edge. Topstitch slit right edge catching facing.

 

13. Neaten lower edge of inner waistband. Lay waistband details right sides together and overstitch waistband upper edge. Topstitch overstitching allowance on inner waistband at 0.2cm from the seam; stop stitching 3-3.5 cm before waistband ends.

 

14. Cut belt loops according to size, mark places and stitch loops to outer waistbands lower edge. Stitch the waistband to upper edge and overstitch waistbands corners. Slash corners and turn the waistband right side out. Topstitch neatened edge on the seam joining the waistband.

 

15. Cut the cord and pull it into coulisses of side seam and leg inside seam.