5504 ¾ TROUSERS
YOU NEED: natural fabric with elastic yarns; elastic braid, zipper, fusing; a button.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 2 cm for hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Cut side front part – 2 pieces
2. Center front part – 2 pieces
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Button catch – 1 piece
5. Patch pocket – 2 pieces
6. Flap – 4 pieces
7. Center back part – 2 pieces
8. Side back part – 2 pieces
9. Waistband – 1 piece
10. Belt loop – 8 pieces
1. Pocket – 2 pieces
Fusing: waistband, button catch, flap.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of waistband, flap, button catch.
2. Lay pocket lining on center front part right side together, and overstitch pocket entrance. Fold the lining out into wrong side. Make decorative stitch along pocket entrance at 0.5 cm from edge. Lay center front part to side front part marking (pocket entrance). Fix side front part to center front part along upper/side edge with 1 cm stitch. Stitch pocket lining and neaten it.
3. Stitch back darts. Press darts towards back center.
4. Stitch front relieve seam and neaten it. Press the seam towards front center and make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from seam.
5. Stitch back relieve seam and neaten it. Press the seam towards back center and make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from seam.
6. Lay flap details right sides together and overstitch them. Cut allowances into corners and turn them right side out. Make decorative stitch along flap outer corner at 0.5 cm from edge and neaten flap upper edge.
7. Neaten garment side. Stitch garment side seam and press it apart.
8. Neaten pocket outer contour and press it according to pattern. Topstitch upper edge on the pocket and topstitch the pocket along the contour at 0.2 cm from pocket edge. Topstitch the flap on the pocket. Fold the flap into right side and topstitch it at 0.5 cm from the seam.
9. Neaten inner/outer leg seams, middle and lower edge of garment. Stitch inner leg seams and press them apart. Stitch front/middle edges up to closure notch. Make another stitch along crotch seam close to the seam joining front seam and middle seam.
10. Press one-piece facings of closure into wrong side. Stitch the zipper under closure allowance left edge. Stitch zipper free braid to one-piece right edge. Neaten button catch side edge. Fold button catch along the center and overstitch short lower edge. Topstitch one-piece closure facing on button catch left edge. Topstitch slit right edge catching the facing.
11. Lay belt loop details right sides together leaving upper edge free. Turn belt loops right side out and pres them.
12. Press the waistband along the center, right side out, and neaten waistband lower inner edge.
13. Stitch the waistband to garment upper edge. Overstitch waistband ends, cut seam allowances into corners and turn them out. Cut elastic braid and topstitch pieces vertically on waistband. Topstitch waistband lower neatened edge on joining seam and press ready waistband. Topstitch belt loops on waistband upper edge. Sew belt loops on garment.
14. Press hem allowance into wrong side and topstitch.
15. Neaten belt loops into waistband right edge, sew the button on left edge.