YOU NEED: wool; fusing; separable zip (see the length on front part’s pattern).
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 2 cm for hem allowance, 0 outer allowances of armhole/neckline facings, 0 cm form front bands.
NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Center front part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Center back part – 1 piece
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Front band – 2 pieces
6. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
7. Half-bent – 2 pieces
8. Back armhole facing – 2 pieces
9. Front armhole facing – 2 pieces
Fusing: front bands, back neckline facing, front/back armhole facings.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, front/back armhole facings.
2. Fold half-bents along the center right sides together, then overstitch along two edges. Turn details right side out and make decorative stitches.
3. Stitch front relieves and neaten them. Press relieve allowances towards the center.
4. Stitch back relieves inserting half-bents. Neaten seams and press them towards back center.
5. Lay front parts right sides together and make edges equal measuring front edgings’ length. Stitch the zipper to front edgings. At zipper segment: press edgings into wrong side.
6. Neaten outer edges of back neckline facing/front bands.
7. Pin front band to front part right sides together and overstitch along front edging. (Overstitching goes upwards on front part.) Stitch front bands’ hems to center front part along hem allowance line. Cut front edging lower corners’ seam. Turn front edgings right side out and press.
8. Stitch side/shoulder seams and press them apart.
9. Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front bands and press them apart. Overstitch front/back neckline. Fold the facing into wrong side, press seams. Topstitch allowances on the neckline at 0.2 cm from the seam.
10. Stitch side/shoulder seams of front/back armhole facing. Neaten armhole facing along outer contour. Lay armhole facing on the garment right sides together, then overstitch. Fold the facing into wrong side slashing armholes at curved segments. Topstitch allowances on armhole facing at 0.2 cm from seams.
11. Fix neckline facing at shoulder seams with 1 cm stitch. Fix armhole facing at side/shoulder seams with 1 cm stitch.
12. Neaten waistcoat hem. Fold hem allowances into wrong side and topstitch. Make decorative stitch along the zipper at 0.5 cm from edge.