You need: soft fabric suitable for coats; fusing, lining, 4 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 3 cm for the hem. 1 cm for other seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 2 pieces
3. Collar – 2 pieces
4. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
5. Large sacking – 2 pieces
6. Front band – 2 pieces
7. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Hidden fastening lining – 2 pieces
4. Small sacking – 2 pieces
1. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
2. Front band – 2 pieces
3. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
4. Hidden fastening lining – 1 piece
NB: when cutting lining front/back pieces, do not take into account front bands/back neckline facing widths correspondingly.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, hidden fastening lining and off-set welt.
2. Apply the fusing to wrong side of pocket place. Press the welt along the center right side out. Mark on it a line to define ready off-set welt’s width. Stitch small sacking to welt’s wrong side. Lay the welt with sacking on front part right sides together coinciding pocket marking and line on the welt. Stitch the off-set welt. Stitch large sacking to pocket marking’s upper line. Cut pocket entrance between markings, with diagonal notches at pocket marking corners. Turn pocket details wrong side out. Press seam allowances. Stitch sackings edges fixing pocket corners. Cut 2 fabric stripes of 2*15 cm for sacking holder. Sew one end to sacking edge. Lay front part on smooth surface, make holder’s another end equal to front edging. Sew holder’s end to front edging. Cut extra fabric of holder
3. Stitch back middle seam. Neaten the seam and press it leftwards.
4. Stitch shoulder edges. Neaten seams and press them backwards.
5. Lay collars right sides together. Overstitch collar ends and collar fall; begin and finish at the line of collar stitching. Turn the collar right side out and press it.
6. Mark fastening slit with three lines on right front band’s right side: the first line is parallel to front edging, it goes at 1.5 cm from front edging as ready; the second and the third lines limit fastening length. Lay strengthened facing on front band right sides together setting it opposite to front edging, coinciding facings edge and marked line. Make stitching at 0.5 cm from marked line along fastening up to lines limiting fastening length. Lay another facing line-on-line to the line joining the first facing, then make stitching at 0.5 cm distance. Control at wrong side if facings are correctly stitched: stitches must be parallel. Cut a hole. Make diagonal slashes at 1-1.5 cm from fastening slit end. Turn facings into wrong side through this hole making a frame of doubled facing; frame is equal to width between stitches. Make fixing stitch along the seam joining the facing. Press another facing toward front band’s inner edge, then make fixing stitch at 0.1 cm from the seam joining the facing. Make buttonholes into front band with strengthened facing. Fix fastening ends on wring side with double reverse stitch along corner base. Stitch facings’ edges. Set fixings between each pair of buttonholes; fixing’s length is equal to frame width. Press front band.
7. Lay front band on front part right sides together, then overstitch along front edging. Overstitching goes at front part, between the hem and the notch pointing the end of collar joining. Cut seams into front edging’s upper corners. Turn front edgings into right side.
8. Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing and front bands. Press seams apart.
9. Insert the collar between the poncho, front band and the facing. Stitch outer collar into poncho neckline, stitch inner collar into front bands/facing necklines. Press seam allowances apart. Fold front bands and facing into wrong side, then stitch collar joining seam allowances close to seams.
10. Stitch lining pieces leaving a 15-20 cm length segment in one of seams (to turn the garment right side out). Lay the lining on the poncho right sides together and stitch the lining to front bands’ inner edges and to back neckline facing. Overstitch front edgings’ lower corner. Cut seams of front edging’s lower corner.
11. Press the hem into wrong side. Slash hem allowance where it is rounded. Stitch the lining to garment hem. Turn the poncho right side out and press it. Stitch the hole in the seam. Make decorative stitch parallel to front edging line (as marked). Sew buttons.