5742 PANTS WITH DECORATIVE FRONT PART
YOU NEED: stretch denim; fusing; 1 zipper; 8 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 5 cm for the hem, 3 cm for back pocket’s upper edge.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Center front part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Back part – 2 pieces
4. Front facing – 2 pieces
5. Back facing – 2 pieces
6. Left inner facing – 1 piece
7. Right inner facing – 1 piece
8. Button fly – 1 piece
9. Back pocket – 2 pieces
10. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
Fusing: front facing, back facing, inner facings, off-set welt, button fly, center front parts’ one-piece facings.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front facing, back facing, inner facings, off-set welt, button fly, center front parts’ one-piece facings.
2. Press upper pocket’s upper allowance into wrong side, fold it under and topstitch. Neaten pocket edges, press allowances into wrong side. Lay the pocket on back part as marked and topstitch.
3. Cut fabric valances with length equal to pocket entrance length+1.5-2 cm and of 4 cm width. Mark pocket places on side front parts. Apply the fusing to wrong side of pocket entrance. Press the welt along the center right side out. Stitch the welt to front part along pocket lower marking. Stitch the valance to front part along pocket upper marking. Stop stitching at short marking lines. Check if the welt and the valance are correctly stitched (stitches on the strong side must be parallel). Cut the pocket entrance. Make diagonal cuts at 1-1.5 cm from pocket end. Turn the welt and the valance into wrong side through this hole, make welt’s ends to set welt’s fold close to the seam joining the valance. Fix pocket ends with double reverse stitches (wrong side) along corner base. Topstitch the welt on the valance along joining seam. Neaten valance edges with facing edges.
4. Stitch back middle edges, neaten allowances. Stitch back facing to back part. Press facings toward the facing. Stitch front facing to side front part. Press seam allowances toward the facing and make double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam; stop stitching at 3-4 cm before side seam.
5. Left front part. Neaten shaped edges of center/side parts. Neaten buttonholes into center part; do not catch closure one-piece allowance. Stitch shaped seam. Press seam allowances toward the center and make double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam. Make double decorative and fixing stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm along the edge of closure one-piece allowance.
6. Right front part. Neaten shaped edges of center/side parts. Stitch shaped seam down from the front fly. Press seam allowances toward the center and make double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam. Press closure one-piece allowance into wrong side. Neaten button fly’s one short edge, press the button fly along the center right side out. Lay the detail on side front part at closure segment (low neatened side) and stitch it on outer side. Press seam allowance toward the button fly.
7. Stitch front parts’ middle edges, neaten allowances. Stitch pants’ side edges, press allowances apart and neaten them. Stitch inside leg seams press allowances apart and neaten them. Make double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam joining back yoke; continue stitching on front part.
8. Stitch inner left/right facings to back facing, neaten outer edges. Lay the facing on pants’ upper edge right sides together. Fold the button fly/closure one-piece allowance into right side and stitch facing’s short edges to them. Overstitch upper edge with button fly’s/closure one-piece allowance’s upper corners. Cut corner allowances, turn the facing right side out and press it. Make double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from upper edge. Make double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from closure right edge. Fold long allowance of one-piece closure into wrong side and topstitch with double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the folding. Fold long allowance of button fly’s inner side under and topstitch it along joining seam. Lay closure right side on the left one coinciding ready closures, then topstitch center part on the button fly with double stitch. Topstitch facing’s neatened edge on joining seam.
9. Neaten hem allowances, press them into wrong side, then topstitch with double decorative stitch.
10. Make buttonholes into right center part, sew buttons to the button fly.