YOU NEED: fabric suitable for cloaks of 150 cm width; lining of 150 cm width; fusing; 4 buttons of 20 mm diameter; shoulder pads.
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
5. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
6. Collar – 2 pieces
7. Center front part – 2 pieces
8. Front band – 2 pieces
9. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Sacking – 4 pieces
11. Center back part – 1 folded piece
12. Side back part – 2 pieces
13. Side front part – 2 pieces
14. Center front part – 2 pieces
15. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
16. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: off-set welt, collar, center front part, front band.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of off-set welt, collar, center front part, front band.
2. Stitch middle back seam, darts, back relieve seams.
3. Overstitch off-set welt along short edges and press folds. Make decorative stitch along off-set welt at 1.0 cm distance from welt. Coincide open edges of off-set welt with bulk seam’s edge of center front part: lay the welt on right side of center front part and coincide off-set welt’s upper edge with the notch. Tack upper part of sacking to the welt. Lay lower part of sacking on right side of side front part. Stitch the welt and sackings. Stitch bulk seams excepting pocket entrance. Fold sackings inside, adjust them and stitch together. Topstitch welts’ short edges on front side, along decorative stitch.
4. Stitch jacket’s side seams.
5. Stitch shoulder seams.
6. Overstitch the collar along ends and collar fall, turn it right side out and press it. Lay the collar on neckline right sides together (according to marks) and tack the, together.
7. Stitch sleeve seams and press them apart. Stitch seams into armholes according to marks. Press sleeve hems into wrong side.
8. Sew shoulder pads.
9. Stitch lining details together in the same way as fabric ones, excluding a segment of about 20 cm length into one of elbow seams. Stitch front bands to lining. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together coinciding them along middle back line and shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with lining along edgings and neckline. Make lapping pleat into hem and stitch the lining to hem edge. Turn the garment right side out through unstitches segment into sleeve, then stitch this segment. Sew lining sleeve hem to sleeve hem.
10. Make buttonholes into right front part and sew buttons on left front part.