7051 LONG PADDED COAT

 

YOU NEED: whipcord; warmer; fusing; lining; 8 studs; 2 eyelets; cord.

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back part 1 folded piece

2. Off-set welt 2 pieces

3. Right front part 1 piece

6. Left front part 1 piece

8. Front band 2 pieces

9. Placket 1 piece

10. Collar 2 pieces

11. Neckline placket 1 piece

12. Upper hood 1 piece

13. Lower hood 1 piece

14. Sleeve 2 pieces

 

Lining:

1. Back part 1 folded piece

2. Sacking 2 pieces

3. Front part 2 pieces

4. Sleeve 2 pieces

5. Upper hood 1 piece

6. Lower hood 1 piece

7. Sleeve 2 pieces

 

Warmer: apply the warmer to wrong side of back/front parts, sleeves, upper/lower hoods, outer collar (topstitch warmer according to marks).

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of off-set welt.

 

2. Make SLIT POCKETS WITH OFF-SET WELT at side front parts: press off-set welts along the center right side out. Apply 2-cm stripe of fusing to wrong side of front part above pocket marking. Lay pocket welt and fabric sacking on front part, right sides together, pin along pocket entrance marking and stitch (welt lengthwise/sacking edges must coincide with pocket marking center). Cut front part between stitches, diagonally to stitch ends. Do not cut welts and sackings! Press seam allowances apart. Turn welts and sackings to wrong side through a slit, then tack. Lay lower sacking on welt at front wrong side (turn sacking upwards), and topstitch the welt on joining seam on right side, catching sacking. Press sacking downwards. Turn small triangles at slit ends to wrong side and stitch, with welts ends, strictly between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut sacking, adjust and stitch.

 

3. Stitch side/shoulder edges.

 

4. Lay outer collar and inner collar right sides together and overstitch them along ends and flying part. Turn the collar right side out and press it.

 

5. Stitch sleeve seams. Stitch sleeves into armholes. Press garment/sleeve hems into wrong side.

 

6. Stitch fabric hoods and lining hoods together. Lay fabric hood on the lining one right sides together and overstitch along outer edge. Turn the hood right side out and topstitch along edges.

7. Sew lining details leaving a hole (to turn the garment right side out) into one of sleeves.

Stitch the placket to right front edging. Stitch front band to lining. Lay the lining on the garment and overstitch along all edges inserting the hood and the collar between lining neckline and garment neckline. Turn the garment right side out and stitch holes edges together. Topstitch the placket along joining seam. Sew lining sleeve hem to fabric hem allowance neatly.

 

8. Set upper studs into right placket/right collar edge, set lower studs into left front edgings and left collar edge.