7062 BLUE JACKET

 

YOU NEED: whip-cord/fabric suitable for cloak; lining; fusing; 2 holders of width; 6 buttons.

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back part – 1 folded piece

2. Back half-belt – 2 pieces

3. Front half-belt – 2 pieces

4. Off-set welt – 2 pieces

5. Sacking lower part – 2 pieces

6. Sacking upper part – 2 pieces

7. Front part one-piece with front band – 2 pieces

8. Outer collar – 1 folded piece

9. Inner collar – 1 folded piece

10. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

11. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

12. Cuff – 2 pieces

 

Lining:

13. Back part – 1 folded piece

14. Front part – 2 pieces

15. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

16. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

 

Fusing: off-set welt, front band, outer collar, cuffs.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of off-set welt, front band, outer collar, cuffs.

 

2. Cut side front slit pockets with welts: stitch welts along short edges, turn them right side out and press. Topstitch the bending along the edge. Apply the stripe of fusing of 4 cm width to wrong side of pocket marking. Lay off-set welt and sacking upper part on front part, right sides together, pin them together along pocket entrance marking and stitch. Lengthwise edges of facings coincides to pocket marking middle line! Cut the front part between stitches, cut the fabric diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut facings! Turn welts and sackings wrong side out through the slit and tack. Lay sacking lower part on front part’s wrong side on welt (lay sacking upward); topstitch the welt on right side along joining seam catching the sacking. Press sacking downwards. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side and topstitch accurately between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut sackings, adjust, and stitch them together. Topstitch off-set welt on front part along short edges.

 

3. Fold half-belt along the center wrong side out and overstitch it along one of long and both short edges. Turn it right side out, press and topstitch along the center. Set back half-belt into holder. Topstitch half-belts on front/back parts according to marks.

 

4. Stitch shoulder/side seams.

 

5. Lay inner collar on outer one right sides together, and overstitch along ends and collar fall. Turn the collar right side out, and press it.

 

6. Stitch sleeve lower seam and upper seam up to slit mark. Stitch sleeves into armholes.

 

7. Stitch lining details (stitch sleeve upper seam towards slit mark) leaving a slit to turn details right side out. Fold front bands into right side. Lay the lining on garment right sides together inserting the collar between neckline edges, and overstitch along edgings, the neckline and the hem. Turn the garment right side out. Coincide fabric sleeve upper seams with lining sleeve upper seams and stitch them together at sleeve slit level.

 

8. Fold cuffs along the center wrong side out and overstitch short edges. Turn them right side out, then press.

 

9. Stitch cuffs to sleeves right sides together. Fold cuffs downwards, press joining seam towards cuffs. Fold cuff inner edge and topstitch it along joining seam.

 

10. Make buttonholes into right edging and cuffs, sew buttons correspondingly.