YOU NEED: fabrics suitable for coats; 6 buttons; fusing; lining; glue net.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hem allowance.
ADVICE: you can do flying lining at garment’s hem: neaten seams and do not fix the lining with glue net.
NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Right front part – 1 piece
2. Left front part – 1 piece
3. Back part – 1 piece
4. Side front part – 2 pieces
5. Side back part – 2 pieces
6. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
7. Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
8. Neckline right facing – 2 pieces
9. Neckline left facing – 2 pieces
10. Front band – 2 pieces
1. Right front part – 1 piece (excluding one front band’s width)
2. Back part – 1 piece
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Large sacking – 2 pieces
6. Small sacking – 2 pieces
Fusing: off-set welt, back neckline facing, neckline right facing, neckline left facing, front band.
1. Apply off-set welts and outer stand-up collars.
2. Fold off-set welt along the center wrong side out and overstitch short edges. Cut corner seams, turn the detail right side out, then press.
3. Mark off-set welt’s place on front part. On the welt: mark the line of joining to the garment measuring width. Lay the welt’s wrong side (processed edge downwards) on small sacking’s right side, adjust edges and let lining edges go beyond the welt equally. Lay the welt on front part and coincide marked lines. Stitch the welt to front part. (The welt is between front part and small sacking.) Fold the seam joining the welt and sacking towards the welt. Lay large sacking on front part right sides together so that the sacking meets the seam joining the welt. Tack it and stitch at 0.8-1 cm from the seam joining the welt. Check if the welt and the sacking are stitched correctly (stitches on wrong side must be parallel). Remove tacking. Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal slits at 1-1.5 cm from pocket’s end. Turn the welt and the sacking into right side through this hole, adjust edges. Fix pocket’s ends with double reverse stitch at corner’s base (wrong side). Stitch the sacking and neaten it. Tack the welt to front part and press it. Topstitch welt’s ends. Remove tacking.
4. Stitch left relieve seam and press it apart. Stitch right relieve seam and press it apart. Stitch back relieve seams and press them apart. Stitch front/back shoulder seams and press them apart.
5. Stitch lining edges, neaten them and press (leaving a hole into shoulder seam).
6. Pin front band to front part right sides together and overstitch along front edging (on front part’s side, upwards.). Stitch front band’s lower edge to front part accurately along marked hem line. Cut front edging’s lower corners’ allowances. Topstitch front edging’s overstitching allowances on front band. The stitch goes at 0.2 cm from the seam and stops 3 cm before neckline.
7. Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing, left/right front neckline facing. Press seams apart. Lay outer/inner facings right sides together and overstitch. Cut facing corners’ allowances and turn the detail right side out. Press facings. Stitch outer facing into coat’s neckline. Stitch inner facing into lining neckline/front band edge.
8. Stitch the lining to front bands’ inner edges. Fix allowances of seam joining facings and neckline. Stitch the lining to coat’s hem. Fix the lining to hem with glue net.
9. Turn the coat right side out through the hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.
10. Make buttonholes into right front edging and facing, sew buttons on the left one.