5714 BELL MANTLE

 

You need: faux fur (short hair), lining, fusing, 3 buttons.

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

Seam allowances: 3 cm for garment hem, 1,5 cm for front/back shaped edges, 1 cm for other seams.

 

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

CUTTING:

 

Fabric:

1. Front part – 2 pieces

2. Back part – 1 piece

3. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

4. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Collar – 2 pieces

6. Front band – 2 pieces

7. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

 

Lining:

1. Front part – 2 pieces

2. Back part – 1 piece

3. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

4. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

 

Fusing:

1. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

2. Front band – 2 pieces

3. Collar – 1 piece

 

NB: when cutting lining front/back pieces, do not take into account front bands/back neckline facing widths correspondingly.

 

NB: please try faux-fur details of unneeded material before you double them of the fur.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of collar, front bands and back neckline facing.

 

2. Stitch front upper dart. Slash dart depth and press it apart.

 

3. Stitch front/back shaped edges, press seams apart.

 

4. Lay front band on front part right sides together, then overstitch along front edging. Overstitching goes at front part side up to the notch pointing collar stitching end. Stitch front bands’ hems to front parts along marked hem line strictly. Cut seams into upper/lower corners of front edging. Turn front edgings right side out.

 

5. Stitch shoulder edges together, press seams apart.

 

6. Lay collars right sides together. Overstitch collar ends and collar fall beginning/finishing at the line defining collar stitching. Cut the seam. Turn the collar right side out, then press.

 

7. Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing and front bands. Press seams apart.

 

8. Lay the collar between the garment and the lining. Stitch outer collar into garment neckline, stitch inner one into front bands/facing neckline. Press seam allowances apart. Turn front bands and facing into wrong side and stitch allowances of seams joining collars close to seams.

 

9. Press garment hem under. Sew the hem with blind stitches.

 

10. Stitch lining details together. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together, then stitch to front bands’ inner edges/back neckline facing at 10 cm from the hem line. Stitch the lining to back/front parts’ slits. Adjust lining hem to garment hem. Fold lining hem twice and topstitch. Stitch the rest of the lining to front band. Sew slit allowances to main pieces by hand or fix them with glue net.

 

11. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons to left one.