You need: soft fabric suitable for coats (you can use a companion fabric for frill and outer collar): lining, fusing, 2 decorative buttons for outer fastening and 3 buttons for hidden one, 1 hood and 1 eyelet for collar.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 2 cm for frill hem, 1 cm for other seam.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Front yoke – 2 pieces
3. Back part – 1 piece
4. Back yoke – 1 piece
5. Back upper sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Back lower sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Front upper sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Front lower sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Collar – 2 pieces
10. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces
11. Front band – 2 pieces
12. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
13. Frill– 1 piece (see size on back part pattern)
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 2 pieces
3. Back sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Front sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Hidden fastening lining – 2 pieces
1. Back neckline facing - 1 piece
2. Front band – 2 pieces
3. Collar – 1 piece
4. Stand-up collar – 1 piece
5. Hidden fastening lining – 1 piece
NB: Frill size is given on back piece. You can put the frill together of several parts.
NB: Before cutting the lining, please gather paper details of upper/back pieces together. when cutting lining front/back pieces, do not take into account front bands/back neckline facing widths correspondingly. Lining comes down to frill joining line.
1. Apply the fusing to wring side of the collar, front bands, stand-up collar, back neckline facing, hidden fastening lining.
2. Stitch front upper darts. Press darts toward the center.
3. Press pleats into yokes and upper sleeves as marked.
4. Stitch back yoke to back part right sides together. Neaten the seam, then press it. Fold the yoke up making a pleat. Make decorative stitch as marked joining the yoke and base piece. Do the same for upper/lower front parts and upper/lower sleeves. Press details.
5. Stitch front shaped edges excluding a segment between marks. Press seams apart. Stitch back shaped edges together. Press seams apart.
6. Mark fastening slit with three lines on right front band’s right side: the first line is parallel to front edging, it goes at 1.5 cm from front edging as ready; the second and the third lines limit fastening length. Lay strengthened facing on front band right sides together setting it opposite to front edging, coinciding facings edge and marked line. Make stitching at 0.5 cm from marked line along fastening up to lines limiting fastening length. Lay another facing line-on-line to the line joining the first facing, then make stitching at 0.5 cm distance. Control at wrong side if facings are correctly stitched: stitches must be parallel. Cut a hole. Make diagonal slashes at 1-1.5 cm from fastening slit end. Turn facings into wrong side through this hole making a frame of doubled facing; frame is equal to width between stitches. Make fixing stitch along the seam joining the facing. Press another facing toward front band’s inner edge, then make fixing stitch at 0.1 cm from the seam joining the facing. Make buttonholes into front band with strengthened facing. Fix fastening ends on wring side with double reverse stitch along corner base. Stitch facings’ edges. Set fixings between each pair of buttonholes; fixing’s length is equal to frame width. Press front band.
7. Lay front band on front part right sides together, then overstitch along front edging. Overstitching goes at front part, between the hem and the notch pointing the end of collar joining. Cut seams into front edging’s upper corners. Turn front edgings right side out.
8. Stitch shoulder edges together. Press seams apart.
9. Lay collars right sides together. Overstitch collar ends/fall inserting a hook and an eyelet into the seam. Cut extra fabric on seam. Turn the collar right side out, then press. Lay stand-up collars right sides together, inert ready collar between them, make notches equal, then stitch together overstitching stand-up ends. Turn the stand-up collar right side out, then press.
10. Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing and front band. Press seams apart.
11. Lay facing on the garment right sides together, then overstitch the neckline inserting the collar between the facing and the garment. Fold front bands and facings into wrong side and press them.
12. Stitch pieces of frill into one frill. Neaten lower edge, fold it 2 cm under and topstitch. Neaten frill sides, fold 1cm under and topstitch. Make loose stitches along upper edge, then gather fabric. Stitch the frill to garment hem folding front band out (front band does not go into the seam).
13. Stitch lining pieces in the same way as fabric one leaving a hole in left shoulder seam to turn the garment out. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together, then stitch to front bands’ inner edges and back neckline facing. Stitch the lining to front part slits. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together, then stitch lining hem and front bands to the seam joining the frill. Sew slit allowances to mane details by hand or fix them with glue net. Turn the mantle right side out through the hole into the seam, then stitch the hole.
14. Make upper buttonhole into right front part and sew decorative button, sew buttons on left front part.