5719 MANTLE TRIMMED WITH INKLE

 

You need: sheer natural/mixed fabrics; lining, fusing, wide inkle (see approximate length on sleeve pattern), clasp.

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams.

 

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

 

CUTTING:

 

Fabric:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Sleeve – 2 pieces

4. Front band – 2 pieces

5. Back neckline facing – 2 pieces

 

Lining:

1. Back part- 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Sleeve – 2 pieces

 

Fusing:

1. Front band – 2 pieces

2. Back neckline facing – 2 pieces

 

NB: when cutting lining front/back pieces, do not take into account front bands/back neckline facing widths correspondingly.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands and back neckline facing.

 

2. Stitch back middle edge. Slash rounded allowances and press them apart.

 

3. Stitch shoulder edges. Slash rounded allowances and press them apart.

 

4. Stitch sleeves to front/back parts. Press seam allowances toward sleeves.

 

5. Stitch middle of back neckline facing. Press seam allowances apart. Stitch shoulder edges of front bands and facings. Press seam allowances apart.

Stitch lining pieces together leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam (to turn the garment right side out).

Stitch the lining to front bands and back neckline facing.

Lay front bands with the lining on the garment right sides together and overstitch around along front edging/neckline/hem.

Slash rounded allowances, cut corners, turn the garment right side out, then press.

Sew technological hole.

 

6. Cut four fabric quadrates of 4x9 cm. Apply the fusing, neaten along perimeter. Lay them on slit marking right sides together, then stitch along marking. Slit the fabric between stitches as for slit pocket. Make diagonal slashes at 1-1.5 cm from short edges. Turn the facing into wrong side trough this hole. Make decorative/fixing stitch along edges of this hole.

 

7. Topstitch the inkle along lapel edges/front edgings, garment/sleeve hems.

 

8. Fold the waistband along the center wrong side out, overstitch along thee edges leaving a hole into waistband upper seam. Cut seam allowances in corners, turn the waistband right side out, stitch the hole. Pull the waistband into clasp and fix it. Set eyelets.

 

Our advice: you can use ready belt as a waistband.