5720 TWEED MANTLE

 

You need: tweed (or natural/mixed fabric suitable for costumes); lining, fusing, 5 buttons.

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1.5 cm for all seams.

 

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

 

CUTTING:

 

Fabric:

1. Back part – 1 piece

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Sleeve – 2 pieces

4. Stand-up – 2 pieces

5. Front band – 2 pieces

6. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

 

Lining:

1. Back part – 1 piece

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Sleeve – 2 pieces

 

Fusing:

1. Stand-up collar – 1 piece

2. Front band – 2 pieces

3. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

 

NB: when cutting lining front/back pieces, do not take into account front bands/back neckline facing widths correspondingly.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing and outer stand-up collar.

 

2. Lay stand-ups right sides together and overstitch along three edges. Slash seam allowances in corners, turn the detail right side out and press it.

 

3. Stitch shoulder edges. Press seam allowances apart.

 

4. Stitch sleeves to front/back parts. Press seam allowances toward sleeves.

 

5. Stitch shoulder edges of front bands and facings. Press seam allowances apart.

Stitch lining pieces together leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam (to turn the garment right side out).

Stitch the lining to front bands/back neckline facing.

Lay front bands with the lining on the mantle wrong sides out, insert ready stand-up collar between them, then overstitch along front edging, neckline and hem.

Slash rounded allowances, cut corners, turn the garment right side out, then press.

Sew technological hole.

Make decorative stitch along front edging/stand-up collar.

 

6. Cut four fabric quadrates of 4x9 cm. Apply the fusing, neaten along perimeter. Lay them on slit marking right sides together, then stitch along marking (the mantle is already with the lining, stitch it through). Slit the fabric between stitches as for slit pocket. Make diagonal slashes at 1-1.5 cm from short edges. Turn the facing into wrong side trough this hole. Make decorative/fixing stitch along edges of this hole.

 

7. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons to left one.