5725 MANTLE WITH SLITS

 

You need: soft fabric suitable for coats; lining, fusing, 3 buttons

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCES: 3 cm for hem allowances, 1.5 cm for front/back shaped edges, 1 cm for other seams.

 

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

 

CUTTING:

 

Fabric:

1. Front part 2 pieces

2. Back part 1 piece

3. Back sleeve 2 pieces

4. Front sleeve - 2 pieces

5. Collar 2 pieces

6. Stand-up collar 2 pieces

7. Front band 2 pieces

8. Back neckline facing 1 piece

 

Lining:

1. Front part 2 pieces

2. Back part 2 pieces 1

3. Back sleeve 2 pieces

4. Front sleeve 2 pieces

 

Fusing:

1. Back neckline facing 1 piece

2. Front band 2 pieces

3. Collar 1 piece

4. Stand-up collar 1 piece

 

NB: when cutting lining front/back pieces, do not take into account front bands/back neckline facing widths correspondingly.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apple the fusing to wrong side of the collar/stand-up collar/front bands/back neckline facing.

 

2. Stitch front upper darts. Press darts upwards.

 

3. Stitch front shaped edges excluding a segment between marks. Neaten seams and press them apart. Stitch back shaped edges. Neaten seams and press them apart.

 

4. Lay front band on front part right sides together, then overstitch along front edging. Overstitching goes at front part side up to the notch pointing collar stitching end. Stitch front bands hems to front parts along marked hem line strictly. Cut seams into upper/lower corners of front edging. Turn front edgings right side out.

 

5. Stitch shoulder seams. Neaten seams and press them apart. Make decorative stitching on sleeves at 1 cm from seams along front/back shaped seams.

 

6. Lay collars right sides together. Overstitch collar ends and collar fall. Cut the seam Turn the collar right side out, the press. Lay stand-up collars right sides together, insert ready collar between them, make notches equal, then stitch together overstitching stand-up ends. Turn the stand-up collar right side out, then press it.

 

7. Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing and front band. Neaten seams and press them apart.

 

8. Lay front bands on the garment right sides together. Insert the stand-up collar between them. Overstitch the neckline stitching the stand-up collar. Fold front bands and the facing into right side and press them.

 

9. Neaten the hem and press it under. Sew the hem with blind stitches.

 

10. Stitch lining details together in the same way as fabrics. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together, then stitch to front bands inner edges/back neckline facing at 10 cm from the hem line. Stitch the lining to front parts slits. Adjust lining hem to garment hem. Fold lining hem twice and topstitch it. Stitch the rest of the lining to front band. Neaten the seam. Sew slit allowances to main pieces by hand or fix them with glue net.

 

11. Make decorative stitching at 1 cm from the edge along front edging and the collar.

 

12. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons to the left one.