You need: soft wool; fusing, leather piping (see the length on front part pattern), 5 large buttons, 4 small buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams. 2 cm for sleeve hems (side edge of front/back parts) and upper/lower pocket’s upper edges. 0 cm for front part/front edging; front part/front edging/back part hems; upper/lower slaps’ lower edges; upper/lower pockets’ three edges; collar ends/fall, stand-up collar’s vertical edges.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Collar – 2 pieces
4. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces
5. Front band – 2 pieces
6. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
7. Upper pocket – 2 pieces
8. Upper flap – 4 pieces
9. Lower pocket – 2 pieces
10. Lower flap – 4 pieces
1. Front band – 2 pieces
2. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
3. Collar – 1 piece
4. Stand-up collar – 1 piece
5. Upper flap – 2 pieces
6. Lower flap – 2 pieces
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands? back neckline facing, stand-up collar, collar, upper/lower flaps.
2. Lay collars right sides together and stitch them together along collar fall close to edges. Stitch stand-ups together inserting the collar between them. Turn it right side out, then press. Trim stand-up with the collar along ends and collar fall with the piping.
3. Lay upper flaps in pairs right sides out, then trim shaped edge with the piping. Neaten straight edges. Make a buttonhole as marked. Press upper pocket’s upper edge into wrong side, fold it under and topstitch. Trim pocket edge with the piping. Lay upper pocket on front part as marked, then topstitch. Lay the flap with its right side on front part and with its’ neatened edge to pocket’s upper edge, then topstitch. Fold the flap to the pocket. Sew a button according to the buttonhole.
Do the same for lower pocket.
4. Stitch back middle seam. Press seam allowances leftwards, then neaten.
5. Cut four fabric quadrates of 4x9 cm. Apply the fusing, neaten along perimeter. Lay them on slit marking right sides together, then stitch along marking. Slit the fabric between stitches as for slit pocket. Make diagonal slashes at 1-1.5 cm from short edges. Turn the facing into wrong side trough this hole. Make decorative/fixing stitch along edges of this hole.
6. Stitch shoulder edge. Press seam allowances, then neaten. Lay the piping on the seam (right side) and topstitch along both sides.
7. Tack the collar into mantle neckline. Stitch shoulder edges of front bands and facing. Overstitch inner edge. Lay front bands on front parts right sides together and overstitch along collar stitching line. Fold front bands into wrong side, coincide front edgings and stitch them together.
8. Press garment side edge (sleeve edge) into wrong side, fold it under and topstitch.
9. Trim front edging and front/back hems with the piping.
10. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons to the left one.
Out advice: you can use ready belt as well as a belt of garment fabric.