5727 MANTLE WITH FUR COLLAR

 

You need: natural/mixed fabric suitable for costumes, long-haired faux fur; fusing, lining, zipper, thin cord, 5 small buttons (to fasten fur collar)

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams. 3 cm for garment/sleeve hems.

 

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

 

CUTTING:

 

Fabric:

1. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces

2. Center back part – 2 pieces

3. Side back part – 2 pieces

4. Side front part – 2 pieces

5. Center front part – 2 pieces

6. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

7. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

8. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

9. Front band – 2 pieces

10. Sacking – 2 pieces

 

Lining:

1. Center back part – 2 pieces

2. Side back part – 2 pieces

3. Center front part – 2 pieces

4. Side front part – 2 pieces

5. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

6. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

7. Sacking – 2 pieces

8. Stand-up collar – 1 piece

 

Fur:

1. Stand-up collar – 1 piece

 

Fusing: center front part, front bands, stand-up collar, back neckline facing.

 

NB: when cutting lining front/back pieces, do not take into account front bands/back neckline facing widths correspondingly.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of center front parts, front bands, stand-up collar, back neckline facing.

 

2. Stitch upper edges of fabric sleeves. Stitch upper edges of lining sleeves. Slash seam allowances and press them apart. Press sleeve hem into wrong side. Overstitch sleeve hem with lining. Adjust fabric and lining edges, then process the sleeve as one piece.

 

3. Lay fabric sacking on side front part’s right side according to notches, then stitch. Lay lining sacking’s right side on center front part, then stitch.

 

4. Stitch middle back edge. Press seams apart.

 

5. Stitch center front /back parts’ shoulder edges. Stitch side front/back part’s shoulder edges. Press seam allowances apart.

 

6. Stitch strengthened stand-up collar into the neckline. Press seam allowances and press them apart.

 

7. Lay front parts right sides together, adjust edges and measure front edgings’ length. Stitch the zipper to front edging and stand-up collar.

 

8. Stitch front/back shaped edges with one seam inserting ready sleeve between them and stitching sackings at the same time. Press seam allowances toward front/back parts’ middle correspondingly. Stitch side edges. Press seam allowances apart.

 

9. Stitch shoulder edges of front band and facing, them press them apart. Stitch stand-up collar without fusing into the neckline. Lay front band on front part right sides together, adjust edges, then overstitch front edging and stand-up collar’s upper edge with one seam. Cut seams into corners, slash roundings.

 

10. Stitch lining pieces together leaving a hole into left side seam (to turn the garment right side out). Press lining seam allowances. Stitch the lining to front bands’ inner edges and to back neckline facing.

Press armhole allowances (fabric and lining) into wrong side. Lay fabric and lining armholes together and topstitch at 0.1 cm from the edge.

Overstitch front edging’s lower corners, cut allowances. Overstitch garment hem with the lining. Turn the garment right side out, then press.

Sew technological hole.

Make decorative stitch along the zipper and collar perimeter.

 

11. Detachable collar. Cut a cord into 5 pieces and make 5 loops. Tack loop ends to stand-up collar’s upper edge above the middle, shoulder edges and at 1 cm from the front edge. Lay the lining and fur stand-up collar right sides together, then overstitch along the contour excluding a short segment into lower seam. Slash rounded allowances, cut corners. Turn the stand-up collar right side out. Sew technological hole.

Lay fur collar to mantle stand-up collar and mark button places (from within) according to loops. Sew buttons.