You need: fabric suitable for costume; fusing, lining, 6 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams. 3 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Stand-up collar 2 pieces
2. Collar 2 pieces
3. Center back part 2 pieces
4. Side back part 2 pieces
5. Side front part 2 pieces
6. Center front part 2 pieces
7. Upper sleeve 2 pieces
8. Lower sleeve 2 pieces
9. Back neckline facing 1 piece
10. Off-set welt 2 pieces
1. Center back part 2 pieces
2. Side back part 2 pieces
3. Center front part 2 pieces
4. Side front part 2 pieces
5. Upper sleeve 2 pieces
6. Lower sleeve 2 pieces
NB: when cutting lining front/back pieces, do not take into account front bands/back neckline facing widths correspondingly. Before cutting sleeve lining, join upper sleeve and lower sleeve.
Fusing: center front part with one-piece front band, stand-up collar, collar, back neckline facing, off-set welt.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of center front part with one-piece front band, stand-up collar, collar, back neckline facing, off-set welt.
2. Lay collars right sides together and overstitch along contour. Slash, turn collar corners right side out. Press the collar. Stitch stand-up collars together inserting the collar. Turn the detail right side out and press it.
3. Lay the off-set welt along the center wrong side out, then overstitch along short edges. Cut corner seam allowances, turn the welt right side out and press it. Make decorative stitch along short and one of long edges.
4. Stitch back shoulder darts. Press them to back center. Cut front waist darts depth along the center, insert the welt according to marks, then stitch. Cut extra fabric of darts, press to front middle.
5. Stitch front shaped edges. Press seam allowances to front center. Stitch back shaped edges. Press seam allowances to back center. Stitch middle back edge. Press seam allowances leftward.
6. Fold one-piece front band into right side, then overstitch upper corner between front edging and middle line. Cut corner seam allowances, turn front edging right side out, then press it.
7. Stitch shoulder/side edges. Press seam allowances apart.
8. Stitch upper sleeve and lower sleeve. Press seam allowances upward. Stitch sleeve edges, press seam allowances apart. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
9. Stitch shoulder edges of front band and facing, then press them apart. Lay the facing on the garment right sides together; insert the collar and overstitch the neckline. Stitch lining pieces together, stitch sleeves in leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam. Press lining seam allowances. Stitch the lining to inner edges of front bands and to the facing. Overstitch lower edge, cut seam allowances. Make decorative stitching along front edging and the collar.
10. Press jacket/sleeve hems into wrong side. Overstitch hems with the lining. Turn the garment right side out through the hole into the sleeve. Stitch the hole.
11. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons as marked.